Jahanpanah, Delhi's fourth city!
(kids in front of the Bijay Mandal, the Begumpur mosque, The Satpula Dam, inside the Kirkhi mosque)

On the 28th of february our group did its tour, starting at the Satpula dam (which used to be part of the Jahanpanah wall). It is quite an intreguing building - what can be seen from the streetside looks like the wall of a bastion, and the seven arches (Satpula = 7 arches) can only be seen from the other side. Behind the dam is a little wildlife sanctuary, unfortunately with a sewer opening up into it...fortunately our tour was not in summer for it would have smelled really bad then. From Satpula dam we walked to Khirki mosque, another hidden treasure. Khirki mosque is one of the two mosques in India that is covered, presumably to shield the faithful from the sun, but in fact dividing the prayer hall in little segments, which is probably why they didn't repeat this way of building.

After Khirki Mosque we went to the Bijay mandal, which is likely to have been the palace of Muhammad bin Tughluq, the sultan who build Jahanpanah. Muhammad was quite a charackter - brilliant, cruel, crazy...he moved Delhi's entire population to what is now Adilabad (three months on foot), only to have most of them die on the way. Those that didn't die perished once arrived as food and water were scarce. Those that refused to go were beheaded...and there are stories that the crippled people, for whom the trip would have been too far, were put in catapults and flung in the direction of Adilabad...Mohammad is said to have died of food poisening in 1351, but we suspect it was poison.

We concluded our tour at the Begumpur mosque, which lies in Begumpuri village (and actually hosted part of the village in the 19th century). Most of the monuments are being restored, and in India that means that you walk amidst the working peopleover rooftops that may crumble beneath you...but it does give you a sense of authenticity.

Kids are everywhere at those places, and the first thing they scream when the see you is "hello, money!". Glad that is clear then...I told them in my best Hindi that my name is not Money but Marja, but I doubt wether they cared...mr. Gill had to walk with us every time we went to study our monuments, to keep the kids away (not in the last place because they all look like they are full of lice, and Kate, my 7cities buddy, had just explained that she got lice from one of those begging kids when she had just arrived in India and it took her MONTHS to get rid of them...just the thought makes my head start itching).
Still, studying the monuments, their history, and the time they were build in (app 1325 - 1351) gives me a sense of how the city developed - all 7 cities tours are chronological so the city literally unfold before your eyes...fascinating! Worth all the work! I am meeting nice people as well, as the total 7 cities group consists of about every nationalit possible. One of my fellow-adventurers is from Korea and made me Kimchi...another is setting up an acupressure class which I am dying to attend and with Kate I go shopping...finaly my social life here starts to take shape!